Camels on the streets and monkeys, Rajasthan is a place that seems suspended in time, dotted with old forts and palaces and where monkeys and camels still dominate the streets. It fascinates the senses: the colorful saris, the twangy sounds of the sitar, the exotic scents of foreign spices.

For an intimate look at the state, avoid the tour buses and hire a driver. I picked a two-week Rajasthan Tour itinerary with a driver from Invicta Tour N Travel that would bring us through much more. Many tour companies along Main Bazaar in Delhi offer this service but prices vary tremendously so shop around and put on your bargaining hats.

We decided on the counter-clockwise route through Rajasthan, leaving from Delhi and heading for the small town of Mandawa. Situated along the ancient Silk Road trade route, Mandawa was once a bustling trade center. The remnants of this prosperous time are reflected in intricately painted frescoes on havelis (traditional-style residences) throughout the town.

The town of Bikaner is most notable for the nearby Karni Mata Rat Temple, the strangest sight I had come across in my journey thus far. Thousands of rats occupy the temple and worshipers come there to feed them. You’re told to watch out as not to step on any of the holy rats, and it is considered good luck if one crosses over your feet. You are required to remove your shoes upon entering temples, so this is not a sight for the squeamish.

Next was the beautifully romantic city of Jaisalmer, the Golden City. Dominated by an enormous old fort that is home to most of the population, Jaisalmer looks as if it has come out of an old Arabian movie. Then we visited Jodhpur, which has a wonderful old fort which gives beautiful views over this “Blue City.” From Jodhpur we traveled to Udaipur, home to the famous Lake Palace, known for its role in the James Bond movie Octopussy. [Udaipur was also the setting for Traveler's October 2007 feature, "My Big Fat Indian Wedding;" photo gallery by Steve McCurry here.] Its really a fun to watch Rajasthan Royal Wedding with absolute rajasthani cuisine.

Our next stop, Pushkar Fair is mostly famous for its largest animal fair in India. Pushkar, is centered around the holy Pushkar Lake surrounded by dozens of cremation ghats. We were cornered by a hardly legitimate “holy man” who guided us in a prayer then demanded a ridiculous “donation”–a common scam in the area.

Our final destination was Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan with all the comforts of a modern-day city that I was craving by now. We caught a Bollywood movie at the popular Raj Mandir theater (no English subtitles) and indulged in some Domino’s pizza. Finally, the next day our driver dropped us in Agra (home of the Taj Mahal) and we were left to our own devices.